For over 300 years, Montross has been the epicenter of major historical and cultural events. Now, exciting local initiatives paired with longstanding traditions are poised to make the village one of the most interesting stops on the Northern Neck.
The county seat of Westmoreland County, Virginia the town is peppered with large, beautiful murals and has a history just as vibrant as the colors painted on the sides of many of the unique stores. Shoppers pop into stores for unique gifts, stop at the coffee shop that features artisanal food and beautiful, local artwork, or indulge in some of the best local Italian food – many never realizing the grounds they are walking once were home to the people and actions that shaped our nation and democracy.
Founded in 1653, Montross was originally known as Westmoreland Court House. In colonial times, future presidents, military generals, founding fathers, revolutionaries, emancipators, and prominent business men regularly met to discuss the nation’s future at the courthouse or one of the town’s notable ordinaries – a staple of that time – which provided alcohol, food, and overnight accommodations to travelers and locals alike.
One of the most notable of those taverns was R.F. McGinniss’ Store. It was located at the east end of Montross and was operated by owner Richard McGinniss. That family dates back to the first settlers in Montross, Michael and Patrick McGinniss. The brothers arrived to the area in the mid-1600s, and their descendants include Civil War soldiers, prominent gristmill owners, teachers, postmasters, farmers, and local politicians. Today, members of the McGinnis family still reside in the area, including Keith McGinniss, a dedicated member of the Northern Neck of Virginia Historical Society.
During Revolutionary times, the town was the site of some of the most remarkable events leading up to the War for Independence. In 1766, Richard Henry Lee solidified his place as one of the founding fathers when he drafted the Westmoreland Resolves, which decried the reviled British Stamp Act. The decree was signed and adopted by 115 patriots from Westmoreland, including Richard’s brother, Francis “Lightfoot” Lee. The Resolves are considered to be the direct precursor to the Declaration of Independence, which was signed by both brothers.
On July 22, 1774, Richard Henry Lee introduced a resolution at the courthouse that was adopted and provided for aid to Boston, Massachusetts following the British Royal Navy’s blockade of their port, which had stopped the flow of all trade and traffic. In 1775, the Westmoreland Committee of Safety denounced Virginia’s Royal Governor Lord Dunmore for seizing the colony’s gunpowder in the name of the crown.
The Lee family home, Stratford Hall, is just outside Montross and was the birthplace of Robert E. Lee, the last of the Lee children who were born at the stately manor. Today it is a beautiful historic destination known for its amazing architecture, events and tours. Additionally, the George Washington Birthplace Monument is also just outside of town. George Washington himself would have been a regular sight in Montross, as he was from a longstanding regional family and spent much of his early life at various great homes along the Northern Neck.
In 1786, Nomini Baptist Church was established, and in less than 25 years it became the largest Baptist
Church in Virginia. In 1809, it boasted over 875 members. Elder Henry Toler - who had been with the church since its inception - was known to baptize between 30 to 60 people at a time. In the past 235 years, Nomini has had over 27 ministers and is considered the “mother church” of at least 10 other congregations in the area.
Another house of worship, St. James Episcopal Church, sits right in the center of town and is a beautiful example of the architecture of its time. Built in 1849, and consecrated in 1850, St. James was erected in an area then known as “Nominy Forest,” as much of the town included and was surrounded by dense foliage. The newly cleared land marked the beginning of a more open town proper.
In 1937, the A.T. Johnson High School was built. The Colonial Revival-style building served as the first public high school for black children in Westmoreland County. Named after Armstead Tasker Johnson (1857-1944), a black educator, community leader and advocate, the school was built with money raised by the local black community with some additional funding from the Federal Works Progress Administration, the Jeanes and Slater Black Education Funds, and the local school board. The building stayed in continuous use as a school until 1998 and is currently used as a Human Services building.
With such an abundance of rich history, one might easily assume that the town’s official name change from
Westmoreland Court House to Montross has a well-documented origin; however, there remains an air of mystery surrounding the issuance.
In 1853, the colonial name was officially altered to Montross by the Post Office Department. The change was nearly a century in the making, as some court documents referred to the town as “Montrose” as early as 1752. During that time, William Black, a colonial merchant and captain of the vessel Montrose, of Montrose, Scotland, had received a power of attorney to conduct business in the town. Black began referencing the village as Montross in his correspondence. Montrose, on the east coast of Scotland, was a huge port, and the third largest importer of the country’s tobacco from the colonies. Many derivatives of names ending in “–rose” in Scotland are interchanged with “– ross”, so it can easily be presumed that the town’s name was rooted from Black and his ship. There is, however, a school of thought that ascribes the name to something entirely different.
From an 1852 deed between William Spence and John Goodridge, to an 1859 document identifying Jos. W. Hutt as a trustee for the Farmer’s Hotel, the name “Montross” was regularly used. In 1852, however, the Commonwealth Assembly recorded an act that incorporated the town as that of “Mont Ross” - with Joseph Lyell, C. H. Sanford and W. A. Spence as the first of the five original town trustees. Therein lays the crux of the question. How did the name “Montross” pass down from the generations over a century from when Black’s ship first landed, to when it was designated Mont Ross and then altered to Montross? In documents from the Northern Neck of Virginia Historical Society, researched by Clifford C. Presnall, the most interesting theory stems from the time’s famous literature. During the 1700s, and into the mid 1800s, many of the great homes across the Northern Neck were named for literary classics. The famed Sabine Hall’s name was derived from poet Horace’s villa outside Rome, Rokeby came from Sir Walter Scott’s poem of the same name, and Marmion – another of Scott’s poems – was also thusly named. This leads to the intriguing premise that perhaps Montross was not from a ship, and rather from Scott’s well-known novel, The Legend of Montross!
Such speculation is certainly intriguing and is a subject that could easily be a part of a lively discussion at the town’s popular café, The Art of Coffee, owned and run by Town Mayor Terry Cosgrove, and his amazing wife, Holly Harmon. Together, the duo has created an amazing bistro with aromatic coffee, phenomenal specialty lunches and dinners, delicious desserts, and a collection of paintings and handcrafted items on display and sale – all made by local artists.
“People come in for a bite to eat, and it is fun to talk to them about the local artwork we feature, how they can go to the beach at the Westmoreland Park down the road to find shark’s teeth, and all of the amazing little facts that make Montross just a wonderful and welcoming town,” Cosgrove said.
In the center of town is the historic county courthouse and jail, the latter of which is a focal point for many locals looking to not only restore an important place in American history but also to showcase some Smithsonian-worthy documents. This includes a beautifully scripted ledger showing when “Light-Horse Harry” Lee – Robert E. Lee’s father - went bankrupt and was briefly imprisoned there for that unlawful act.
“That building is one that would be a true shame to be lost to time,” said visitor Richard Avonits, of
Fredericksburg, who had stopped in town to grab lunch at Angelo’s, one of the most acclaimed pizzerias in the region. Owner Bryan Oliff, who has operated Angelo’s since he bought it in 1991, loves that the town has some of the “coolest people” in the world. “The people that live here are very unique, as are those that pass through,” Oliff said. “I love coming to work every day because I meet some of the best people in the world.”
Across a side street from the courthouse and jail is the home of the Westmoreland County Museum, which has an abundance of intriguing exhibits. Amongst them include a painting of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, by Wilson Peale, which tells a story in symbols. Other portraits feature George Washington, James Madison, James Monroe, and there is also an extensive collection of artifacts discovered in the region. The museum recently extended to the courthouse, where it now operates a research facility and is the home to an amazing treasure trove of historical books and research documents.
Just down the road in town, at 15482 Kings Highway, is the headquarters of the Northern Neck of Virginia Historical Society. The facility is home to a renowned history and genealogy library, as well as a bevy of research newsletters. The NNVHS staff, under Executive Director Kathy G. Schuder, is well known for going above and beyond in helping new visitors and long-time residents alike with researching the region’s history.
“We are here for everyone, and we welcome people to visit our website or call us. We are always happy to help those who want to learn about this amazing area,” Schuder said.
With so much to see and do, it is no wonder that the town recently embarked on revitalization efforts, including getting designated as a “Historical District,” which will add tax advantages for local business while allowing them to remain autonomous.
“We have been tirelessly working to develop an appeal to a younger demographic. From the coffee shop and The Barn (a remarkable barbeque restaurant in town), to the new Montross Brewery and Beer Garden, we have a lot to offer and it is all highlighted by the amazing mural portfolio done by world-acclaimed artist Melanie Stimmell,” Cosgrove said, adding that the town is also becoming more pedestrian friendly and a destination for the artisanal community. He also noted that Montross’ famed Virginia “LOVE” sign, west of Carver Street and the old Coca-Cola Bottling plant in town, just won Third Place for Best in State in “LOVE” signs.
Montross officials and residents are thrilled about the new park that the county is leasing to the town, which will butt up to the current public library to the right of the courthouse. Once developed, the park will feature open green spaces and walking paths made possible with the help of the Rappahannock Regional Library and the Northern Neck Gardeners. It will be the perfect place for First Fridays, a current music event held the evening of the First Friday of every month and sponsored by The Greater Montross Partnership for Revitalization. The event features live music from local musicians, food and craft vendors, and wine booths from local vineyards.
Children of all ages who visit Montross love to roll on through to Stan’s Skateland, an indoor roller skating rink, and are captivated by the enchanting Christmas Spirit Festival, which includes the annual tree lighting, gospel music, storytelling, and a special visit from Santa and Mrs. Claus.
The first Saturday in October brings Montross’ “capstone event,” The Fall Festival. Held for over 60 years, the annual event is considered a “homecoming for many people” and includes a parade, streets full of vendors selling local crafts, food and beverages, music, the Little Mr. & Miss Fall Festival Pageant, a pet show, and so much more. The event is largely supported by local businesses, like C&F Bank Montross Branch, which, on June 24, donated $1,000 to the Montross Fall Festival Committee.
“People who stop here might be brought because they are visiting one of the nearby historic parks or homes, but once they see how much Montross has to offer, it quickly becomes a favorite destination. We cannot wait to see what the future of the town holds, because it really is a wonderful community,” Cosgrove said.
For more information on the Town of Montross, please visit townofmontross.org, the Historical Society at nnvhs.wordpress.com or by phone at 804-493-1862, or the Town of Montross’ Facebook page, which lists all of the current events and activities.
The House and Home Magazine would like to extend their deepest thanks to The Northern Neck of Virginia Historical Society, Terry Cosgrove, Bryan Oliff, and The Town of Montross for their invaluable help in the research of this article.