Every culture has its own Christmas traditions, and if you have had the good fortune to be born into a family with Italian heritage, you are probably familiar with a gastronomic extravaganza known as “The Feast of the Seven Fishes”, a tradition that spans generations, decades, and oceans. In Southern Italy, Christmas Eve is known as La Vigilia or “The Vigil” and commemorates the anticipation of the birth of Jesus. The Feast of the Seven Fishes (or in Italian: Festa dei Sette Pesci) is a beloved Italian-American celebration of Christmas Eve with the serving of fish and other seafood. It is not a “feast” in the sense of a Catholic liturgical holiday, but rather a grand meal. Christmas Eve is a vigil or fasting day for Catholics everywhere, and the pescatarian menu reflects the customary abstinence from red meat until Christmas Day itself. While not mandated anywhere in the Bible, by tradition the feast draws heavily on two things often mentioned within its pages: the number seven and fish.
Among its many symbolic meanings in the Bible, the number seven is considered to represent completion or perfection. Jesus tells Simon Peter he must forgive his brother “seventy times seven” times, or without limit. There are seven deadly sins and seven virtues, as well as seven sacraments, according to Catholic teachings. The “Seven-Fold Spirit of God” is thought to refer to the Holy Spirit, one-third of the Trinity. The number is also closely linked to resting, as in the practice of the Sabbath day, emulating God taking the seventh day to rest after creating the universe. In Leviticus, God instructs the Israelites to institute the practice of a regular sabbatical year in which their fields were to lie fallow, and servants were set free. In Revelation, the number is used quite frequently, as in seven churches, bowls, seals, trumpets, and thunders. It is also the number of years that the Great Tribulation will be visited upon the earth, according to prophecy.
Fish are featured often in the pages of scripture which describe the life and ministry of Jesus of Nazareth. Jesus chose to recruit four disciples, Peter, James, John and Andrew, from the fishing profession. He often makes use of fish to illustrate his teachings. He said in Matthew 4:19 to Simon and Andrew, “Follow me and I will make you fishers of men.” Jesus often told his disciples where to cast their nets, which resulted in large catches. In another account, Jesus miraculously feeds a crowd of 4,000 with seven loaves and a few small fish. Mark 8: 9-20 “... how many baskets full of broken pieces did you take up?’ and they said to him ‘Seven.’”
If your Italian-American friend’s attention wanders during the month of December, they are probably not contemplating the spiritual significance of these topics. More likely they are mentally planning their menu for the epic meal to come or daydreaming about past feasts at their Nonna’s table. For many, this is an annual chance for cooks to shine and show off, stretching their culinary muscles beyond the common fare of lasagna and meatballs. If you asked a hundred different families, you would get just as many answers to the question of what dishes are a must-have during this feast. It all depends on individual family tradition. Some modern-day Italian-Americans have fond memories of their grandmother butchering live eels in the kitchen sink, while others are nostalgic for the fragrance of a bubbling cauldron of scungille (mollusks such as mussels, clams, or, more commonly, conch), the sauce simmering for hours on the stovetop and lovingly ladled over spaghetti or linguine, with plenty of crusty Italian bread on hand to mop it up.
Much like Italy, our Tidewater area is rich in fruits of the sea. The bay and ocean and rivers can be harvested, and its bounty used in myriad ways to grace the table and honor old traditions…or perhaps establish a few new innovations as the years roll by. No matter if you choose to adhere strictly to the tradition of “seven fishes” or decide to keep it simple with fewer seafood dishes, it is important that the spirit of the beloved feast is maintained and handed down to generations to come.
Here are a few of our favorite recipes which you may want to incorporate into your own Christmas Eve tradition, Italian or not.
A good way to start any party is with this savory smoked salmon dip. It can be made up to a day ahead, and the flavors will just deepen and improve.
SMOKED SALMON DIP
Ingredients:
- 12 ounces cream cheese, cubed
- 1/4 cup sour cream
- 3 green onions, chopped (white parts only)
- 2 tablespoons capers, drained
- 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
- 4 ounces smoked salmon or lox
- 1 tablespoon dill weed
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, or to taste
- 1/8 teaspoon pepper
- Assorted crackers
Directions:
Place the first 10 ingredients in a food processor. Process until smooth. Refrigerate, covered, until serving. Serve with your favorite crackers.
Next up is an impressive dish, especially when artfully plated on a festive Christmas platter. The golden-brown puff pastry layer is easier to achieve than it looks.
SALMON EN CROUTE
Ingredients:
- 1 (1-lb.) salmon fillet, about 1 inch thick
- Kosher salt
- 2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 5 ounces baby spinach
- 4 ounces cream cheese
- 1/2 cup grated Parmesan
- 1 teaspoon dried dill
- 3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs, divided
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1 (15” x 10”) sheet puff pastry, room temperature (preferably Pepperidge
- Farm)
- 1 large egg, beaten to blend
Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Generously season salmon all over with salt. Place on a plate and refrigerate until chilled, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium heat, heat oil until shimmering. Add onion, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add spinach and stir until vibrant green and starting to wilt. Stir in cream cheese, Parmesan, and dill and cook, stirring frequently, until cheeses are melted and combined, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1/2 cup panko and cook, stirring, until mixture is thickened, about 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.
Rinse salmon under cold water to remove salt, then pat dry with paper towels. Place sheet of puff pastry on a cutting board and arrange salmon in the center. (There should be about 2 inches of dough on each side of the salmon.) Season salmon with salt. Spoon spinach mixture over salmon, making sure it stays in the center of fish, smoothing in an even layer. Sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup panko over spinach mixture.
Fold long edges of dough over salmon, then fold short ends up. Flip, seam side down, and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush all over with egg wash, then cut shallow diagonal lines to score top of dough.
Bake salmon until pastry is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of salmon registers 140 degree, 25 to 35 minutes. Transfer salmon to a platter and slice.
You cannot live in Tidewater and not include crab in some form in a seafood feast. These yummy warm morsels can be served first as an appetizer or accompany a main dish as a side. Take the extra time to broil them for best flavor and appearance.
CRAB ARTICHOKE STUFFED MUSHROOMS
Ingredients:
- 20 button mushrooms, cleaned and stems removed
- 8-ounce cream cheese, softened
- 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack, divided
- 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan
- 1 (14 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and finely chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 12 ounces lump crab meat
- 2 green onions, sliced
- 2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Chopped parsley, for garnish
Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, combine cream cheese, Monterey Jack, Parmesan, artichoke hearts, garlic, crab, green onions and Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper and stir until fully combined.
Stuff mushrooms with mixture and transfer to a small baking sheet. Bake until mushrooms are cooked, and mixture is warmed through (about 25 minutes.) Broil and garnish with parsley, if desired.
Calories do not count at Christmas, so feel free to dig into this dish with gusto. The creamy, triple-cheesy sauce clings lovingly to the pasta and ensures none of those juicy chunks of lobster fall off the fork!
Y-VETTE’S LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE
Ingredients:
- Kosher salt
- Vegetable oil
- 1 pound cavatappi or elbow macaroni
- 1 quart milk
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 12 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated (4 cups)
- 8 ounces extra-sharp cheddar, grated (2 cups)
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
- 1 1/2 pounds cooked lobster meat
- 1 1/2 cups fresh white bread crumbs (5 slices, crusts
- removed)
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Drizzle oil into a large pot of boiling salted water. Add the pasta and cook according to the directions on the package, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain well.
Meanwhile, heat the milk in a small saucepan but do not boil it. In a large pot, melt 6 tablespoons of butter and add the flour. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring with a whisk. Still whisking, add the hot milk and cook for a minute or 2 more, until thickened and smooth. Take off the heat and add the Gruyere, cheddar, 1 tablespoon salt, the pepper, and nutmeg. Add the cooked macaroni and lobster. Stir well. Place the mixture in 3- or 4-quart baking dish, lightly greased..
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and combine with fresh bread crumbs. Sprinkle on top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the sauce is bubbly, and the macaroni is browned on the top.
Eat like a millionaire when you serve these oysters. First offered in 1889 at Antoine’s, an upscale New Orleans restaurant and named (due to the dish’s extreme richness) in honor of John D. Rockefeller, the wealthiest man in America.
OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER
Ingredients:
- 2 cloves garlic
- 1 cup tightly packed fresh spinach
- 1/2 cup roughly chopped green onions
- 1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley, leaves and stems
- 2 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
- 2 tablespoon Pernod or another anise-flavored liqueur
- 3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 pound coarse salt, for baking
- 24 fresh oysters, shucked, shells reserved
- Lemon wedges, for serving
Directions:
Position rack in top third of oven and preheat to 450 degrees. Add garlic, spinach, green onions, parsley, lemon juice, butter, and Pernod to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. In a medium bowl combine, panko, Parmesan, and oil.
Sprinkle coarse salt over large baking sheet to a depth of 1/2 inch. Arrange oysters in half shells in salt. Divide spinach mixture among oysters and sprinkle with Parmesan mixture. Bake until spinach mixture is bubbling, and panko is deeply golden, about 8 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges alongside.
This one is a dish to gladden a Northern Italian heart. Served much like a fondue, it is a hot dip with anchovies and six cloves of garlic incorporated, a paesano’s delight. At family gatherings, if it is on the table, eat it in self-defense!
BAGNA CAUDA
Ingredients:
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 6 large cloves garlic, minced
- 1 (2 ounce) can anchovies, drained and finely chopped
- Assorted vegetables, for serving
- Sliced bread, for serving
Directions:
In a small pot over low heat, combine butter, oil, garlic, and anchovies. Let cook for 10 minutes. Serve warm with vegetables and bread for dipping.
Rockfish, or striped bass, is a delicious treat native to Virginia waters, with the largest fish available during the winter months. It is a white-fleshed fish with a sweet, mild flavor.
PAN-SEARED ROCKFISH RECIPE
Ingredients:
- 4 rockfish fillets
- 1 lemon
- ⅓ cup flour
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
- 5 tablespoons butter, divided
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 tablespoon capers
Directions:
Rinse rockfish fillets in cold water, then pat dry. Zest and juice lemon the lemon. Combine the flour, salt, and pepper on a shallow plate. Heat 1 of tablespoon butter and the olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Dredge the rockfish fillets in the flour mixture one at a time and add to skillet when butter has melted. Discard the extra flour. Pan-sear the fillets for 5 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom, then flip to brown the other side. Flatten the fillets gently with a spatula to ensure even browning.
When the second side has browned (about 3-4 minutes) and fillets are cooked through, remove from pan and set aside. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter to the pan and turn the heat down to low. When the butter starts to brown (this should take 1-2 minutes), add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of lemon zest, capers, and cook for 30 seconds.
Turn off the heat and taste the sauce, adding more lemon juice, salt, and/or pepper as desired. Drizzle the sauce over fillets.
With a delicious tradition such as the Feast of the Seven Fishes, on Christmas Eve perhaps we who cannot claim the actual heritage could borrow an Italian identity temporarily. Just as we are all a little Irish on St. Paddy’s Day, for La Vigilia, why not sit down with famiglia to a fabulous seafood feast and a few good bottles of wine? SALUD!