Olive oil, particularly the extra virgin variety (EVOO), is a superstar of the culinary world and a staple of Mediterranean cuisine. Olives are one of three essential plants in a Mediterranean diet, the others are wheat and grapes. It’s hard to imagine a chef who doesn’t recommend EVOO for drizzling, emulsifying or enhancing the best recipes. Its health benefits are widely recognized. Among them are healthy fats, antioxidants and strong anti-inflammatory properties. Olive oil is said to help fight cancer, strokes, heart disease, Alzheimer’s, rheumatoid arthritis and type 2 diabetes.
Consumption of olive oil has increased more the ten-fold in the U.S. over the past 35 years, and the popularity of the Mediterranean Diet has in part made olive oil a $16 billion-a-year industry. Today, Spain is the largest producer of olive oil by volume, followed by Italy and Greece. Italy imports about 65 percent of Spanish olive oil exports.
However, like any superstar in the modern world, olive oil has a controversial side — some experts report that 60 to 90 percent of the olive oils sold in American grocery stores and restaurants are adulterated with cheaper oils, like hazelnut, soybean, corn, sunflower and many others. These added oils are often not listed on labels, so consumers are in the dark as to whether or not they’re buying the real deal, or some lesser imitation. How do you know?
A little information goes a long way. Learning to read the labels and decipher the clues are keys toward getting the best product for your money. Experts note that your sense of taste and smell are the most reliable, so a taste test is valuable.
LIKE A VIRGIN?
Extra virgin olive oil is made simply by crushing/grinding olives and extracting the juice. It is the only cooking oil that is made without the use of chemicals and industrial refining. EVOO is simply the juice of fresh, healthy olives, which contains, more than any other grade, the
health-promoting nutrients for which olive oil is famous. Extra virgin is the highest quality and the most expensive olive oil classification. It is carefully graded by recognized standards to have no defects and a flavor of fresh olives, with scents of freshly mown grass, tomatoes on the vine, apple, green banana, or other newly harvested fruits and vegetables.
It must be produced entirely by mechanical means without the use of any solvents and under temperatures (about 80 degrees Fahrenheit) that will not degrade the oil. Ripe olives yield oils that are milder, aromatic, buttery, and floral, while green olives yield oils that are grassy, herbaceous, bitter, and pungent. Fruitiness also varies with the species of olive; there are thousands. Fresh olive oil will have a mostly pleasant, acrid flavor sensation on the tongue. A peppery sensation in the mouth and throat is a sign of abundant nutrients in good, fresh extra virgin olive oil.
It’s not easy to produce fine olive oil, EVOO specifically. A producer must use the freshest olives in good condition and monitor every step of the process with great care. Olives are harvested from late August through November or early December, depending on the desired ripeness. Early, very green olives, produce less oil, but yield a more grassy, fresh flavor — these oils are usually more expensive because it takes more young olives to produce a bottle of oil. They are said to have a longer shelf life and a higher antioxidant content. Later-season olives produce more oil, have a more mellow flavor and are less expensive.
The most careful producers harvest their crop very tenderly — any bruising of the olives will cause almost immediate fermentation, which produces flavor defects like a moldy or wine/vinegar taste. Typically, workers place a tarp, or a device that resembles an upside-down umbrella, under each tree. The tree is shaken, mostly by mechanical means, so that the olives fall to the tarp. Then workers use special rakes to gently comb through the tree branches to release the remaining olives, while taking care not to step on or, otherwise, damage the delicate product. The olives should be processed the same day they’re picked — some producers strive for processing no more than one hour after harvesting.
“Cold pressed” is mostly an obsolete term, which refers to a time when oil was made using hydraulic presses, and there was a distinction between the first (cold) press and the second (hot) press, but that method is outdated. Today, most olives are ground into a paste and processed in a centrifuge, which causes the oil to rise. It’s rarely pressed at all, and true EVOO comes exclusively from the first processing of the olive paste.
Like fine wine, there’s both art and science involved in producing superior olive oil, but unlike fine wine, olive oil doesn’t improve with age. It must be consumed within its two-year shelf life, stored away from light and heat. Even in perfect storage conditions, the oil will d
egrade over time, so it’s prudent to enjoy it within an 18 to 24-month window. Consequently, experts recommend buying EVOO in small bottles and using it within six months of its purchase date. As a side note: There is no such thing as Extra-Extra Virgin Olive Oil; it’s a marketing term.
IN OTHER WORDS
The designation “Virgin Olive Oil” (not EVOO) means that the product might have modest taste defects and meet somewhat less strict chemical parameters. However, virgin olive oils are produced in much the same way as EVOO; they do not undergo any of the industrial processes used to make “refined” oils such as canola, sunflower, soybean and the lower grades of olive oil. It’s rare to see “Virgin” oils for sale because too often producers market “Virgin” oils as “Extra Virgin” to command higher prices. Until standards enforcement catches up with the practice, real “Extra Virgin” is trickier to spot.
Olive oils that are industrially refined to remove unpleasant tastes are marketed as “Light,” or “Pure.” These refined oils are produced on a large scale like seed oils such as canola, peanut, soybean and sunflower oils; however, refined olive oil is still a monounsaturated fat and is a healthier choice than other refined cooking oils. Despite its name, light olive oil does not mean that this variety of oil has fewer calories or a lower fat content. Instead, this label refers to the oil’s lighter color and neutral flavor. Rather than a deep green, light olive oil has a golden yellow hue. It keeps longer on the shelf and has a higher smoke point than other types of olive oil, but also has fewer nutrients, due to processing.
LOOK TO THE LABEL
How can you tell if the olive oil on your shelf is really the best quality? Check the bottle for a label from the North American Olive Oil Association (NAOOA), a trade group that tests olive oils to see if they measure up to the manufacturers’ claims. This trade group tests olive oils to determine if they are what the labels say they are and not an adulterated or mislabeled product. The International Olive Council (IOC) is the international body that sets quality standards for the olive oil industry.
Unfortunately, “use by” and “sell by” dates on bottles really don’t mean a lot, as there’s no regulation assuring that the oil will remain of high quality until that date — quality is greatly dependent on how the oil is stored. The date you really want to know is the “harvest” date. “Early harvest,” or “late harvest” oils will have different flavor profiles. The 18 to 24-month window should begin on the harvest date.
Olive oil is somewhat similar to fresh-squeezed orange juice; it has a rather short shelf life. It’s perishable even when used cold, thanks to its chlorophyll content, which enhances nutrients, but accelerates decomposition. The best way to maintain your olive oil is to use it liberally and close the bottle quickly, then store it away in a cool, dark spot.
Part of the enjoyment of any artisanal product is the study of the process and the application of personal taste. A careful examination of labels, as well as a few taste tests, should help find the best olive oil to suit your individual needs. While you’re experimenting, try a couple of recipes in which olive oil plays a starring role.
SPAGHETTI WITH HOMEMADE PESTO SAUCE
Ingredients:
• Leaves from 2 bunches of fresh basil
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts, untoasted
• 1 garlic clove
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound long pasta of choice
Directions:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta. Combine the basil, pine nuts, garlic, and olive oil in a blender and blend to a puree. Add the cheese, salt and pepper, and blend again. Cook the pasta according to the package directions in the boiling, salted water until al dente. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Add the pesto and toss. Taste for salt and pepper, and add another drizzle of oil, if you like.
PESTO CHICKEN PIZZA
This pizza is fresh, flavorful and absolutely perfect for summer, topped with a vibrant pesto sauce, mozzarella, chicken, olives, and mushrooms. Yield: 1 (13-inch) pizza.
Ingredients:
For the dough:
• 1 ball pizza dough or 1 prepared crust, store bought is fine
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
For the sauce:
• 1/3 cup pesto (homemade, see above, or store bought)
For the toppings:
• 8 oz. grated mozzarella cheese
• 1 cup seasoned grilled chicken
• 1/2 cup green olives, whole or chopped
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon grated parmesan cheese
• A handful of fresh basil leaves; arugula is also a good choice
Directions:
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. If using dough, roll it out into a 14-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a parchment-lined pizza pan. Fold over the extra inch of dough around the edge to form the crust, pressing to seal. Brush with olive oil. Pierce the center of the pizza with a fork to prevent large bubbles from forming. Place in the oven and bake for 5-7 minutes, remove and set aside.
If using a prepared crust, brush with olive oil and follow the package directions to bake. Then set aside. Spread 1/4 cup of the pesto over the top of the baked pizza crust, then sprinkle with half of the mozzarella cheese. Toss the chicken in the remaining pesto and add it to the pizza, then top with remaining mozzarella, olives and mushrooms.
Place the pizza in the oven and bake for 7-10 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and the cheese is melted. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes, then sprinkle with grated parmesan and fresh basil/arugula. Cut and serve.