Lancaster County: Wide Open Spaces and Beautiful Places

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Our winter hibernation is giving way gradually to a craving for fresh air, unobstructed views and exploration. We’ve spent our share of time sheltering at home, and now we’re looking to the great outdoors for a new perspective.

Whether you’re a local or a visitor, Lancaster County is calling you. Located on the tip of Virginia’s Northern Neck where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Rappahannock River, Lancaster County’s geography destined it to be one of Virginia’s leading resort, retirement and easy-living communities. Occupying 231 square miles, with an impressive 180 miles of shoreline, Lancaster beckons you to wander its wide open spaces and beautiful places. It maintains an alluring open-air, rural atmosphere with a vibrant twist — history, shopping, art and cuisine.

HISTORIC ROOTS RUN DEEP

Lancaster County was first explored by Captain John Smith in 1608. It was chartered by the Virginia General Assembly in 1651 on the same day as Gloucester County, making them the 12th and 13th counties established in the Virginia Colony. Lancaster soon became home to powerful families who helped shape the future of a new nation. Its location on the Chesapeake Bay and the Rappahannock River made it a center of the steamboat trade and enriched the region. Today, Lancaster County’s museums, monuments and mansions attest to its significance in the overall pageant of America and make every visit a reminder of the heritage that we all share.

Lancaster was home to Robert “King” Carter, American businessman, political figure, planter and one of the wealthiest men in the colonies. It is also the birthplace of Mary Ball Washington, mother of George Washington, inaugurated in 1789 as America’s first president. St. Mary’s Whitechapel was founded in 1669, as a place of worship and a center of colonial life. St. Mary’s is known as the home church of the Ball family. Mary Ball Washington was born sometime between 1707 and 1709 at either Epping Forest, her family’s plantation in Lancaster County, or at a plantation near the village of Simonson, Virginia. The Lancaster Virginia Historical Society/Mary Ball Washington Museum & Library anchors the Lancaster Court House Historic District. The Museum/Library was established in 1958 to preserve and interpret the stories and rich history of the people of the Northern Neck. Also open for visitors is the Morattico Waterfront Museum, which honors life on the river by preserving the cultural history and traditions of a watermen’s village on the Rappahannock. Belle Isle State Park offers 892 acres of open spaces for camping fishing, boating and hiking. The park is a peninsula between Deep Creek and Morattico Creek, surrounded by coastal marshes and teeming with local wildlife — blue herons, osprey, hawks, bald eagles and roaming deer, among others. Bel Air Mansion and an adjacent guest house are available for overnight rentals.

MORE TO EXPLORE

Although Lancaster County is the most populated county in the Northern Neck, its density is still only about 87 people per square mile, compared to the state average of 276 and Northern Virginia’s estimated 2,651 people per square mile. The major towns in Lancaster are Kilmarnock, Irvington and White Stone. Other unincorporated communities include: Litwalton, Lively, Merry Point, Mollusk, Morattico, Ottoman and Weems.

Following a year of COVID-19 pandemic restrictions, events have been scrupulously adjusted to accommodate new realities. Those eager to get out and about will find a community working hard to keep the doors open safely.

“I’m very optimistic,” said Anne Paparella, executive director of Lancaster by the Bay Chamber of Commerce. “Events may look a little different going forward, but we’re adapting. Hope springs eternal,” she said. “We have a lot of open space, plenty of outdoor activities and lots of places to explore — all of which lend themselves to social distancing.” Also, because local merchants live and work in their communities, she added, “They’re taking safety very seriously and have a lot invested in figuring out the best practices. We’re not throwing in the towel.” Scores of independent merchants in the region delight in filling their shops with one-of-a-kind merchandise you won’t find anywhere else, and the friendly, personal service is a Lancaster County tradition.

Lancaster County is part of the Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace wine-growing region recognized by the United States as an American Viticultural Area. Carefully curated fun includes about ten wineries/breweries/cideries, a dozen or more marinas, and a profusion of fairs, festivals, concerts, farmers’ markets, parades and seafood feasts. The county’s waterways and woodlands are a nature lover’s dream. The back roads and byways are perfect for strolling or cycling. With the Rappahannock on one side and the Chesapeake Bay on the other, you’ll never run out of water — for swimming, fishing, boating or simply relaxing. Local cuisine comes in at least three distinct flavors — classic, country and cutting edge. First-time visitors are often surprised to discover that prize-winning chefs aren’t confined to cities and that memorable dining experiences aren’t confined to a “restaurant row.”

Given the repercussions from a global pandemic, home buyers are looking for more wide open spaces as well. “Since we’ve learned that you can work from anywhere, why not do it with a water view?” said Paparella.

“People are drawn to our area for the gorgeous waterfront, rural towns with friendly faces, lower taxes, plus the easy proximity to large cities and airports,” said Katie Dew, a broker with IsaBell K. Horsley Real Estate in Lancaster. “In March 2020, as the world stopped and we looked around, we didn’t know what turn real estate in our area might take. Now, with Virginia continuing to open back up, we’ve been extremely busy with showings and contracts in all price ranges.”

Looking forward, as listing prices steadily increase, Dew feels the market will continue to flourish. Once people embraced the fact they can work from home, “Many buyers decided they’d rather work with a view, a big backyard and some fresh seafood right off their dock.”

KILMARNOCK

Kilmarnock is a commercial hub of the Northern Neck and the largest incorporated town in Lancaster County. First settled in the mid-1600s, Kilmarnock was originally known as “The Crossroads.” The town probably had its beginnings at the intersection of traditional footpaths which later became the locations of Main Street and East Church Street.

In the early 1700s, merchant William Steptoe operated a storehouse, tavern and inn at this crossroads, eventually called “Steptoe’s Ordinary.” In 1764, Robert Gilmour, an agent for a mercantile firm based in Glasgow, Scotland, is thought to have been involved in giving the name of “Kilmarnock” to this location, using the name of Kilmarnock, Scotland, where he apparently also owned land. The earliest known record referenced to “Kilmarnock, Virginia,” can be found in a deed recorded in 1778. It was incorporated as the “Town of Kilmarnock” by an act of the Virginia General Assembly in 1930.

The town has a charming, walkable retail district, which offers dozens of shopping choices from jewelry and fashion, to furniture and home decor, as well as antiques and art. Dining options are plentiful from seafood to classic American to Asian. Many establishments feature outdoor seating. The pristine Town Centre Park offers a pleasant place to sit and people watch, along with a dog park, and a water feature for the kiddos. The park is a venue for community events throughout the year. The nearby Kilmarnock Inn offers a quaint venue for a quick stop or a complete getaway, with multiple guest rooms and cottages surrounding an expansive courtyard, as well as a bar and dining rooms.

The Kilmarnock Museum is located in one of the oldest remaining houses in town, showcasing a variety of artifacts and unique events. The museum also celebrates the town’s connection to its sister city, Kilmarnock, Scotland.

WHITE STONE

The town of White Stone was founded in 1715, but it was not incorporated until 1953. Most accounts of the naming of the town involve milling operations that used to operate on a creek near the center of town which used a large white stone. Stories tell of people who brought their household and farm implements to the mill to be honed on this white stone. Another theory about the name comes from an account of accumulations of white stones in the area’s waterways. The stones were said to be dumped there in the colonial era by British ships that dumped their stone ballast to make room for cargo like tobacco to carry back to England.

From the modest eighteenth-century hamlet possibly named after a millstone, White Stone has now evolved into a growing business center and bay community. The icon that most people associate with White Stone today is the Robert O. Norris Bridge. The bridge is majestic, not only because of its two-mile span, but also for the vast views of the Rappahannock River and the Chesapeake Bay beyond. Because of its narrow, tall profile, the Norris bridge is often referred to affectionately (or not) as the “white knuckle” bridge.

At the foot of the bridge is the historic White Stone Beach, once a recreational destination in its own right, and a docking point for steamboats of a bygone era. The beach is now a beautiful spot for viewing sunsets, or enjoying an alfresco meal from Willaby’s Café and Catering. A short ride takes you to another breathtaking view at Windmill Point. Also nearby is the historic plantation house, Pop Castle, built in 1855 in the Greek Revival style and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is available to rent for a unique getaway.

IRVINGTON

Serenely sited on the tranquil eastern banks of Carter’s Creek where it flows into the Rappahannock River, and about 12 miles north of its confluence with the Chesapeake Bay, is the quintessential American village of Irvington. Plantation owners came here to grow and export tobacco to England via the bay and Atlantic Ocean. Water’s edge villages, like Irvington, quickly emerged along creeks, rivers and estuaries. Irvington’s rustic village vibe represents coastal Americana at its best with an abundance of history, nature, shopping and dining.

The Town of Irvington’s roots are intertwined with the creek and coves that act to shape the town’s 8.78 miles of shoreline. Original residents of Irvington largely emigrated from the Eastern Shore of Maryland during the nineteenth century. These founding residents came to the area by means of the waterways and earned their livelihoods from the water. Once a thriving market for steamboats of the Chesapeake, Irvington is home to the Steamboat Era Museum, which tells the story of the steamboat trade, and how it enriched the lives of citizens throughout the region.

A National Historic Landmark that stands today virtually unchanged since 1735 is Historic Christ Church and Museum. A sister church to St. Mary’s Whitechapel, Christ Church is in near-original condition and features exhibits and artifacts related to the social and political world of colonial Virginia.

Cruising through Irvington, one can’t help but notice two towering corkscrews standing like sentinels at the gates of The Dog and Oyster Vineyard on White Fences Drive. The whimsical display of public art is fashioned in the style of American sculptor Claes Oldenburg, but was made by Tiffany Yachts in Burgess, Virginia.

For a quick respite, alfresco refreshments, a full meal, or an extended stay, stop off at The Hope and Glory Inn or The Tides Inn. Both facilities are a destination unto themselves. Hope and Glory Inn features whimsical “schoolhouse” decor, a lovely courtyard and meticulously decorated rooms and cottages. With traditions reaching back to the 1940s, Tides Inn is an elegant resort which welcomes visitors with tranquil accommodations, ample amenities, expansive views and multiple dining options.

ESCAPE TO LANCASTER COUNTY

When the time is right, plan your springtime escape to Lancaster County. Open spaces, interesting places and friendly faces await your arrival. Whether you’re looking for vast water views, hiking and nature trails, boutique shopping, fine dining or a history lesson, Lancaster is calling you.

For more information about destinations and events in Lancaster County visit: lancasterva.com, kilmarnockva.com, visitwhitestoneva.com, or visitirvingtonva.com.