In the dead of winter, as ice and snow blanket the landscape, nature slumbers. Most of her trees lay bare, their skeletal arms bereft of the verdant greens and vibrant blooms that are a spring and summer hallmark. While the evergreens provide breaks from the bare brown branches and long-gone gardens, the heart yearns for more. Not all is lost, however, as a horticultural magic trick can break the doldrums of winter’s hibernation. In the windowsills and shops, and on tables there is a savvy burst of color in every shade of the rainbow on display in luxurious floral bloom. But what trickery is this? The secret lies in the art of forced bulbs.
Forced bulbs are just that, flowers that have been hoodwinked into believing it is spring, and, therefore, time to bloom in all their radiant splendor. This is a delicate process, and it relies on carefully curated cold ground, slowly introducing a “false spring”, and then ensuring the burgeoning bulbs are getting a perfect mixture of sunlight, moisture and correct temperature. It may sound daunting to the uninitiated or novice winter bloom gardener, but there is a recipe for success - and it starts with the most basic of ingredients: rich soil.
In general, potting soil is the perfect medium, as is a light soil mixture mixed with small stones that can easily be dug from an out of sight location in the yard. There are a few options for planting, and they can go from complex to quite simple, depending on the time and options each gardener desires. For first-time winter bloom gardeners, the easiest way to fool the flowers starts at the end of summer. Clay pots can be filled with soil. The bulb is then planted so that the tips of the bulbs are just above soil level. Pots must have drainage, as a soaked bulb usually ends in ruin. It is important to remember that the pots used will generally be the same ones shown off in the home, so being creative with designs and colors can greatly enhance the final look.
For the more adventurous, there are “cold frames.” These unique planters can be built, or bought prefabricated. Most models are a rectangular box, approximately 18 inches tall on the highest side with a slanting downward top lid that slopes down a foot. They are placed outside on a bed of stones or rocks that will help provide drainage and ensure there is no flooding. While there is not enough top-room for other plants, they are perfect for bulbs. These frames are also made with lids that ensure that inclement weather is kept out and are ideal for locations where the chill is natural to the season. The bed’s low end should face south or west for adequate sunlight.
Next, pick your bulbs. Whether you have some already in your garden or are starting from scratch, bulbs should be purchased in advance. Most sites offer pre-orders as early as spring and the start of summer, although you can have some delivered as late as early winter - giving you time to set up your slumbering garden. When planning and planting the general rule of thumb is to plant the bulbs fairly close together as long as they are not touching. For a six inch diameter pot plant four to six tulips, daffodils or hyacinths depending on the size of the bulbs.
After planting, it is time to lull the bulbs into thinking that winter has arrived - another sleight of hand. While it may be picnic weather outside, putting the pots into a cold and dark storage area will begin the magic. Ideally, they should be stored where the soil will not freeze but will stay very cold — above 32 degrees, but below 50. Somewhere from 40 to 45 degrees is the most ideal. A dark basement or even a refrigerator will suffice. It is also the time to stop watering and allow the bulbs to “sleep,” checking the pots weekly to ensure that there is no mold and also that the soil stays semimoist in dry environments. This process fools the bulbs into thinking that winter has arrived. The only exception is for amaryllis and paperwhites, which do not need the extreme cold storage as they do not experience winter in their natural climates, blooming year-round in the right temperatures. For other flower bulbs, though, they will have to be tricked into a “winter snap” in order for the vibrant plants to bloom inside. The timing for bulbs varies, but never fear - there is a method to winter bloom madness, and the recipe is easy to follow.
A general timeframe for forcing bulbs:
- Chill in late September, bloom in January
- Chill in October, bloom in February
- Chill in November, bloom in March
- Chill in December, bloom in April
Christmas bulbs require a bit more work, but the result is a stunning display for a festive season. It is advised to start by staggering the bulbs, starting around eight weeks before the holidays. By staggering them, you not only safeguard against disappointment if a bulb does not bloom but you have the opportunity for new additions that will enrich the beauty of your display, growing each week until you have a marvelous sight to behold - just in time for your guests to arrive. Be prepared for exclamations of wonder as they marvel at the fresh floral beauty and your gardening prowess. You will also have flowers that last through January to February, a wonderful start to the new year.
So, what happens once you have chilled your bulbs long enough? It is time to slowly turn up the temperatures and get those first green shoots. Starting anytime from six to twelve weeks, you will start to see green tips reaching up from the dirt. These first shoots are the sign that you are right on track!
Now, it is extremely important that the next steps are followed so as to not shock your bulbs - which can prove disastrous. First, remove the pots from their cold location and store them in a room that is between 55 and 65 degrees for about two to three weeks. A basement or unheated room in your house will work just fine. After the short adjustment time, the bulbs will have some new green growth and are almost ready to grow and bloom. Take the time to find the perfect location in your home to show off your hard work. A window sill, foyer table, countertop or other prime location - as long as there is sunlight - will be perfect. As the stems grow, bud and bloom, make sure they stay hydrated, only adding water when the soil is dry.
In no time, all your hard work will have paid off, as in just a few weeks your home will be overflowing with rich colors and the natural perfume of healthy blooms. The sublime colors will brighten the house and ward off the winter blues. Once the flowers have completed their cycle, they can be discarded or may be planted in the garden. Many will rebloom after a few year period.
There are some exceptions to regular forced bulbs. If you are unable to plant your bulbs in soil, you can place them in a small paper bag and leave it refrigerated before potting the bulbs at the desired time.
Another trick up the forced bulb sleeve is the svelte look of vase bulbs. Instead of soil, pick a glass vessel, preferably one in an hourglass shape that will hold the bulb perfectly at the central point. Fill the bottom with colored beads, glass, or stones, and then fill with water to just touch the bottom of the bulb. If the water is too high, the bulb will rot. Follow all the same instructions as if you had planted it, and once your bulbs have rooted you can move the blooms to a bright, sunny spot for all to see.
Forcing bulbs is a process, that when followed, provides amazing results. As the winter takes hold, guests will be hard- pressed to think that there is no magician in the house. With just a few steps, and some patience, you will have created a house filled with life, color, and vibrant joy.
Many bulbs have specific timeframes and having that knowledge is like a gardening recipe for success. Listed below are the type and timing that will help you reach your full winter bulb potential.
AMARYLLIS
CHILL TIME: NONE
BLOOM TIME: 6-8 WEEKS
CROCUS
CHILL TIME: 8-15 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS
AFTER CHILLING
DAFFODIL
CHILL TIME: 2-3 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING
GRAPE HYACINTH
CHILL TIME: 8-15 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING
HYACINTH
CHILL TIME: 12-15 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING
IRIS
CHILL TIME: 13-15 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING
PAPERWHITE
CHILL TIME: NONE
BLOOM TIME: 3-5 WEEKS
SNOWDROP
CHILL TIME: 15 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING
TULIP
CHILL TIME: 10-16 WEEKS
BLOOM TIME: 2-3 WEEKS TO BLOOM AFTER CHILLING