The Jamestown-Scotland ferry "Pocahontas."
Southeast Virginia is full of surprises. In its maze of waterways and miles of byways are countless pockets of history, good reasons to take your car — and yourselves — for a ride on all three of the area’s car ferries.
The Northern Neck holds two of these reminders of an earlier time. Each carries land traffic across water to extend a county route. Even their names — Merry Point and Sunnybank — suggest good surprises, and they do not disappoint. Both are cable ferries. The Merry Point ferry in Lancaster County crosses the western branch of the Corrotoman River and serves as the water connection for scenic byway 604. The Sunnybank ferry carries Route 644 traffic across the Little Wicomico River in Northumberland County.
The ferries carry repeat local traffic — some of which may count as commuter traffic — and all curious visitors. Motorcycles, bicycles, even vehicleless passengers use the ferry, perhaps just because it’s such a pleasant break in the day. Regular riders of the Merry Point ferry mention a resident retriever, who apparently enjoys the “forth and back” rides as the ferry takes the dog across the water and then brings her back home. Lancaster County hosts an annual bicycle event in the fall, and a ferry ride is included. At least one couple chose the ferry as their wedding venue.
Merry Point ferry approaches the dock.
Merry Point has had ferry service at least since 1847, with Sunnybank’s start dating around 1911. Both were private enterprises until the Virginia Department of Transportation (VDOT) took over their operation in 1932. Service on both is free, yet another happy surprise for the rural traveler.
The vessels themselves have changed a few times through the years. It’s not hard to picture the first vehicles transported being the horse-and-wagon variety rather than the automotive. Until 1985, the ferries were basic barges initially pushed by a deadrise workboat tied alongside and later propelled by an onboard diesel, including one engine with a reversing drive mechanism. The first steel ferries were built in Deltaville in 1985, and the most recent upgrades, also from Deitaville, were put into service in 2010. These newest ferries are able to carry four cars (small to mid-size) instead of the former limit of two vehicles per trip. Both have a passenger limit of six. Another surprise for visitors may come with the ferries’ ridership numbers. For 2014, Merry Point notes 12,688 vehicle transports and 19,691 passengers. For Sunnybank, the figures are 3,765 vehicles and 6,032 passengers. July is the busiest month.
Hours of operation are posted at each ferry dock and online at VDOT’s website, but bad weather, unusual tides, and even ice on the water can disrupt normal operation — not because the vessels would be unsafe, but because tidal variations and wavy conditions make it difficult for the ferry ramps to match the level of the land. With too much incline on the ramp, vehicles with a low undercarriage might be damaged when boarding or leaving the ferry. Naturally, at times of extreme weather events like tropical storms or nor’easters, the ferries are taken out of service.
Sunnybank ferry comes into dock to pick up vehicles.
Until recently, the only way ferry operators could notify potential riders of an interruption in service was to leave the ferry and drive to a number of roadway signs in order to change an “open” notice to “closed.” This process would take half an hour or more. Now, however, VDOT has posted advisory signs at various locations on the routes leading to the ferry docks to provide real-time notice of the status of the ferry service. Operators can remotely activate the new signs within minutes. With the installation of these signs — six for Merry Point, five for Sunnybank — no drivers will be caught by an unpleasant surprise that might require back-tracking their intended route. When the ferries are in service, the lights on the signs will flash.
Each ferry is operated by one person, which creates one more potential disruption in service — that being lunch. Sometime during midday, the ferry will be closed for half an hour. This may not be a consistent half-hour, as it depends partly on the day’s demand for service. Still, it is something to consider if a driver has not yet adopted the right attitude about a ride in the country.
Each ferry may save its riders a half-hour of driving time, but that may not be the primary reason for taking the ferry. The better reason is simply being out on the water, enjoying the view, the openness, the atmosphere, even for the short time it takes to cross the water. A ferry ride is a must-see for all visiting friends and relatives, and it often means more than one trip.
During the winter months when ridership is lowest, one or both ferries may be out of service for inspection, maintenance, or perhaps an upgrade like a new ramp to make it easier to adjust the ramp height at times of low or high tide. Summer hours and off-season hours vary slightly, but neither ferry has Sunday service, and Merry Point is also closed on Mondays. Hours are posted online at VDOT’s website.
Built in 1995 with a 70-car capacity, "Pocahontas" is the newest ship in the Jamestown-Scotland fleet. Courtesy of the Virginia Department of Transportation.
Big sister to the Northern Neck ferries is the Jamestown-Scotland ferry, the only state-run 24/7, 365-day ferry in Virginia. It’s free too. The ferry crosses the James River to carry Virginia Route 31 traffic between James City County on the north side and Surry County on the south.
The ferry’s busier location guarantees many more riders than the smaller ferries usually accommodate. The Jamestown-Scotland ferry must prepare for actual rush hours for commuter traffic moving between Surry and Williamsburg. The tourism focus of the area brings another steady stream of traffic either coming to or leaving the Jamestown section of the Historic Triangle.
The crossing is about fifteen minutes out of the driving day, often a good break from road travel. Walkabouts on deck offer a chance to stretch your legs, breathe some fresh “sea” air, and let your mind wander. Somehow, a water view never fails to bring calm into what may otherwise be a rushed day.
From the ferry deck, photo ops are everywhere. Bollards lining the docks are landing sites for gatherings of gulls. On a recent trip, one group of pilings had been claimed for the exclusive use of an osprey pair seemingly determined to raise their chicks in spite of all the attention and noise. On the river, the passing traffic includes fishing boats, barge traffic, and another of the ferry’s boats crossing the river from the opposite side.
Albert Jester built the "Captain John Smith" and made the first automobile ferry crossing of the James River in February of 1925. Photo courtesy of VDOT.
As ferries go, Jamestown-Scotland is the newest kid on the water, having recorded its initial crossing of the James River in February of 1925. The first ferry was actually built by Albert Jester, the man who first saw the need for such a service. At 60-feet long, Captain John Smith could transport 16 Model-T Fords plus 100 passengers on the top deck. An apparent success, the ferry was purchased in 1945 by the Virginia Department of Transportation. Today’s fleet consists of four ferries: Virginia, built in 1936 to carry 28 cars; Surry, 1979, 50 cars; Williamsburg, 1983, 50 cars, and Pocahontas, 1995, 70 cars. A new boat is under construction and is expected to be in operation by 2018.
With its 90 employees, the Jamestown-Scotland ferry runs some 32,000 crossings to transport about 936,000 vehicles each year. Those who opt to ride the ferry should not be surprised if one of those employees comes to inspect your vehicle. Security officers conduct random screenings of passenger vehicles, a procedure aimed at ensuring safety for all aboard. The ferry’s website answers many common questions, a good way to learn what to expect.