Signs of the Road Less Traveled

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Wandering the back roads of Virginia’s peninsulas was once a challenge to navigation, and getting lost was standard procedure. Thanks to the Virginia Department of Transportation (VDOT), it’s much easier to follow a direct path to a goal, but thanks to another set of signs, drivers may still be tempted to seek out the alternate route, the back road, the change of pace to a new and unknown destination.

Virginia byway signs — showing a bright red cardinal and white dogwood blossoms on a deep blue background —indicate the roads less traveled and more likely to lead to new favorites for those on a journey of discovery. The signs do not indicate the specific sights to be seen, but that’s part of their charm — the wanderer won’t know what’s to be found until it is found.

It’s also likely that those riding in the car will notice the historical markers at the side of the roadways. Curiosity will demand a few stops for a quick read of some markers, and one by one, they’ll explain the special reason why each one exists. If byways and markers aren’t enough to keep the curious visitor busy watching and learning, a few more signs in government brown will announce a state park or natural area preserve, perhaps a nature trail or boat landing.

Who chooses, who places, who maintains all these signs? It depends.

Virginia Byways

Also called scenic byways, the Virginia byways’ stated purpose is “to identify road corridors containing aesthetic or cultural value near areas of historical, natural or recreational significance.” Byways can also benefit local economies, attracting visitors to lesser-known destinations.

In Virginia, a new byway designation can be suggested by anyone, but that’s only the start of an approval process that checks a long list of requirements. Initially, a resolution of support from the local governments through which the route passes is received by VDOT or the Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR). The nomination is then presented to both VDOT and DCR, and together these two departments will ensure that the road meets the requirements for a byway. They collect information on local zoning laws and on traffic volume and accident reports to see that the road meets safety requirements before evaluating it according to specific criteria.

A byway route should lead to or through specific places or a general area that offers access to historic, cultural, natural, or archaeological sites as well as recreational opportunities. Regarding the initial qualification of scenic beauty, the criteria further specify diversity as the landscape transitions from one scene to another. Understood almost without saying it, a major consideration is that the byway avoids major highways, taking drivers away from the congestion of main roads and onto the smaller, quieter routes for less stressful, more leisurely travel. The speed limit is another consideration — it should allow travelers to view the surrounding landscapes. A welcome respite for tourists accustomed to interstate traffic and at the same time a new awareness for residents, the byways highlight and provide access to the wide range of places that make the region unique.

If the suggested byway is approved by VDOT and DCR, it will be reviewed by the Commonwealth Transportation Board (CTB), which will make the final decision. Clearly, the byway designation is not assigned casually. The general time frame between the initial suggestion and the final posting of a sign is between 18 months and two years. Once a road is designated as a byway, no billboards may be installed.

According to the 2017 Virginia Outdoor Survey, visiting natural areas was the number one outdoor recreational activity in Virginia, and 67 percent of respondents listed “driving for pleasure” as the second. The 2016 Tourism Survey listed the top activities related to Virginia byways as “visiting historic sites, monuments, rural sightseeing, museums and parks.” The peninsulas of southeast Virginia hold multiple opportunities to see all.

Historical Markers

Historical markers — the square silver/white signs placed at the side of the road — are scattered throughout Virginia, some 2,600 of them statewide. Though not part of the byway system, their reason for being might encourage a byway designation. Today’s historical markers are placed by the Virginia Department of Historic Resources (DHR). Older markers may show the names of agencies that handled the program in the past.

Requests for a new marker come from many sources: individuals, organizations, schools, local governments, and more. Application forms can be found on the DHR website, but besides providing all the required information, the person or organization requesting the marker must be prepared to pay for its manufacture and installation, currently $1,770, assuming the marker will be placed on a VDOT roadway. If not on a VDOT road, an additional fee may be charged for installation by the local department that’s responsible for the road’s maintenance.

The first criteria for a historical marker is that its topic should have regional, statewide or national significance. The subject can be a person, a place or an event. A marker cannot be made for a living person, and an event generally should be one that occurred at least 50 years ago, though exceptions are possible. The applicant provides the text for the marker, about 100 words written in a specified style so that all markers have a common presentation. The text will be edited by DHR staff, but the sponsor will see all changes. The sponsor must also provide three sources of information so DHR staff can check all facts. After approval of a new marker, a district representative from VDOT or someone from a local public works department meets with the sponsor to choose an appropriate roadway site.

Recently placed markers run the gamut of topics. In Westmoreland County, a marker notes the military and governmental career of John Pratt Hungerford. A Northumberland marker recognizes First Baptist Church, the earliest African-American Baptist congregation in the county. In Lancaster County, a marker acknowledges Dr. Morgan E. Norris, the Northern Neck’s first black physician, while a Richmond County marker focuses on a portion of Rappahannock Indian history. A marker in Gloucester County calls attention to the contributions of the Women Airforce Service Pilots (WASP) in WWII. Middlesex County will soon have a marker commemorating black educator John Henry St. Clare Walker, for whom St. Clare Walker High School (today Middle School) was named.

Virginia Natural Area Preserves

Not all natural area preserves are found along Virginia byways, but they are well worth finding. They’re managed by DCR but unlike the Virginia state parks that the department also manages, the natural area preserve system is more about conservation, less about recreation. Fortunately, most of the areas have boardwalks or walking trails that allow visitors to get an up-close look at some remarkable places. The purpose of the preserve system is to protect Virginia’s natural communities, including common native species as well as rare plants and animals. Once a property is dedicated as a preserve, the site is protected in much the same way as conservancy land, with legally binding restrictions on future activity and development.

Many of the preserves are owned by DCR. In those cases where the department doesn’t own the property, DCR still manages it through a partnership agreement with the owner. Hickory Hollow in Lancaster County is a beautiful example of these places. Described as an upland mixed pine and hardwood forest, the site also has a forested wetland that is home to more than 100 plant species. Migratory songbirds, wood ducks, kingfishers, and wild turkey are found here — it’s no surprise that the preserve is owned by the Audubon Society. The site is truly special. In its summer growth, it is lush and green and humid, creating a kind of aura within its unique surroundings.

Following any sign’s lead can satisfy a long-standing curiosity or bring the pleasant surprise of new discovery. Virginia’s peninsulas have more than a fair share of diversity. Whether the road less traveled prompts a brief glimpse into nature or a longer look at history, a meandering pace will foster slow time well spent.